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Early Birds Get the Turkey
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Last November I took a 150-mile round trip to a farm north of Baltimore to purchase freshly slaughtered heritage breed turkeys for my Thanksgiving table: a nine-pound Black Spanish and a 15-pound Narragansett. I still cringe to think of the carbon footprint created by that meal. The superb flavor of those juicy birds more than justified my splurge of cash and gasoline ($4 per pound and a half tank of gas), yet I resolved to look closer to home for my next turkey.
This year I found, within 50 miles of Shepherdstown, a good number of farms using sustainable production methods to raise small flocks of heritage and hybrid turkeys (see box with contact information). All the growers pasture their birds, allowing them to forage on rich clover, bugs, and grain supplements. Still, these turkeys are not in plentiful supply, and they are not inexpensive compared to the Broad-breasted White sold in most supermarkets.
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The revival of interest for what is termed heritage turkeys grew from the efforts of the American Livestock Breed Conservancy, which discovered in the late 1990s that these breeds were in danger of extinction. Sustainable and local food promoting organizations such as Slow Foods, Food Routes, Local Harvest, and EatWild spurred demand, and entrepreneurial farmers are taking heed.
“Heritage” refers to eight standard breeds that were recognized by the American Poultry Association in the late 1800s. These birds were common on American farms until commercial breeders monopolized the industry in the 1970s with the Large White turkey, bred for maximum meat production. This cheap, massively breasted breed that you find on 90 percent of Thanksgiving tables in the United States has lost its ability to fly, run or mate, and in confinement production, is dosed with antibiotics to fight disease.
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October is certainly not too soon to secure a locally grown turkey. Most of the listed growers have regular customers and don’t want to raise more than they can sell. One grower said she gave up on her turkeys this year because hawks flew off with almost all her young poults. Another reduced his flock this year because last November he had to put several hundred pounds of unsold turkey in his freezer.
Although all the growers listed in this article are raising pastured turkeys, not all raise heritage breeds, and most are unwilling to go to the trouble and expense to obtain organic certification. The breeds most commonly available are the hybrid Broad-breasted Bronze and Broad-breasted White. The dressed birds will weigh in between 9 and 20 pounds, though a few over-nourished 30-pounders may be available. Since the flocks range in number from 25 to 200, growers will not be able to provide every variation on size or breed that you may want. Prices will range from about $3.00 per pound to about $5.00 per pound. Contact the growers for details of production methods, breed, availability, ordering, and payment details.
Local Turkey Producers
(in order of proximity to Shepherdstown)
Eric Johnson
Southwood Farm Forge
Kearneysville, WV
(304) 876-7080
swoodfarmforge@outdrs.net
Katherine and Sam Ecker
Legacy Manor Farm
Boonesboro, MD
(301) 432-0267
legacymanor@netstorm.net
Danny Rohrer
Rohrer’s Meats (also distributes turkeys from Maple Lawn Farm, Md., at the Shepherdstown Farmers Market)
Boonesboro, MD
(301) 432-8350
dakarohfarm@aol.com
Jim and Mindy Cawley
Hurry Burry Farm
Smithsburg, MD
(301) 416-0005
info@hurryburry.com
www.hurryburry.com
Andrea Minicozzi
A Rare breed
Hedgesville, WV
(304) 270-8154
www.arare-breed.net
Myron Horst
Jehovah-Jireh Farm
Dickerson, MD
(301) 874-6181
www.jehovahjirehfarm.com
Scott Trexler
Sattva Place
Rocky Ridge, MD
(301) 305-7898
scott@expandingheartcenter.com
Julie Bolton
Groff’s Content Farm
Rocky Ridge, MD
(301) 447-6148
juliebolton@wildblue.net
Will Morrow
Whitmore Farm
Emmitsburg, MD
(301) 447-3611
info@whitmorefarm.com
www.whitmorefarm.com
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Pumpkin Posole
This warming, savory variation of a New Mexican classic is a delicious celebration of fall’s winter squash harvest.
1 3 to 4 lb. chicken, cut into pieces (or equivalent)
2 quarts chicken broth
6 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
1 butternut squash, or other firm winter squash (approximately 2 pounds)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 tablespoons New Mexico chile powder (Chimayo chili powder, or other high quality chili powder)
2 15-oz cans hominy, drained and rinsed
4 – 6 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Salt
Accompaniments
Avocado cubes
Limes
Tomato salsa (fresh tomato, onion, Serrano chili)
Shredded lettuce or cabbage
Sour cream
Tortillas
Put the chicken, sliced garlic, and oregano in the simmering broth. Remove the chicken breasts as soon as they are just cooked and leave the legs to cook longer, until tender. Transfer the chicken to a bowl, and, when cool enough to handle, remove meat from bones and skin and cut or tear into chunks.
Meanwhile prick the whole squash lightly with the tip of a sharp knife. Put in a baking pan and roast in a 400-degree oven for about 25 minutes until just barely tender. Remove from oven and cool. Cut in half, scoop out the seeds, and pare away skin. Take the thin bulbous end of the squash, cut into pieces, and add to the chicken broth. Simmer until it is very tender and crush with a fork against the edge of the pot. Cut the remaining squash into half-inch pieces.
Sautee the onion and garlic in the oil until the onions are tender. Add the chili powder and cook a few minutes until aromatic. Scrape into the broth.
Add the hominy and chunks of squash to the broth and simmer until the squash is tender. Add the chicken and cilantro and taste for salt. Simmer a few minutes longer.
Serve with accompaniments.
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