With holidays approaching, it’s time to start thinking about what wines are best suited for that festive meal. The first holiday just around the corner is Thanksgiving. It has always been hard to pair a wine with dinner Thanksgiving. What wine could possibly go with turkey, cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, stuffing, gravy, and more? As is typical, Christian and David have taken different sides on the debate about what to drink and pour for your guests on Turkey Day.
David: Although Thanksgiving is truly an American holiday, I still believe that the best wines to go with this great meal are from the Old World, Alsace in particular.
Christian: The only holiday more American than Thanksgiving is the Fourth of July. How can you possibly recommend French wine? I am going with a big juicy California pinot noir. It’s a natural fit for the dinner. Cranberry is an aroma often found in pinot noir, especially from Carneros, Calif. And pinot noir is the perfectly weighted red wine for turkey and all the trimmings. Besides, I have been drinking white wine all summer long; now it’s red wine season!
David: I thought we were done with the “freedom fries” protests. I am still voting for Alsace, France. A land that has changed hands so many times that half the residents don’t know if they are French or German. However they have managed to take some of the best wine growing techniques from both countries. There are four major grapes in this region, known as the Noble Grapes: riesling, muscat, gewurztraminer, and pinot gris. These are the only varietals from Alsace that can obtain the Grand Cru classification. They are all white, varying from sweet and floral to bone dry. All are excellent with Thanksgiving dinner. Price ranges vary too, but there are many great Alsatian wines in the “reasonably priced” category.
Christian: Now David, it is easy to find the same pleasurable white wines without looking overseas. How about a nice gewurztraminer from California or a pinot blanc from Oregon? I recommend Navarro Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley California 2004 ($27). It has a stunning honeysuckle nose that will thrill your guests. Also, I had the new St. Innocent Pinot Blanc, Freedom Hill Vineyard 2006 ($25) from Oregon the other day and that wine is a powerhouse. Its acidity is perfect for cranberry sauce, and it is weighty enough to stand up to Mom’s turkey and gravy.
David: Often guests will say, “But I don’t like sweet wines,” when suggested a riesling (or muscat) with turkey. This is where their eyes are opened to the fact that not all rieslings are sweet. In fact, most Alsatian rieslings tend to be dry and crisp, but still maintain that glorious tropical fruit and zesty citrus. Stay with the pinot gris if you’re going for bone dry, though. Be adventurous and try a gewurztraminer. Often people can be turned off by this grape’s over-the-top nose, but gewurztraminer’s gentle mouth-feel and flowery aromatics make it a prefect pairing for a wide variety of dishes and flavors. All of these wines will bring out the sweetness in the juicy turkey, pair gorgeously with the cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes, and have enough acidity to cut through Grandma’s secret stuffing recipe.
Christian: You seem pretty intent to promote white wines for the holidays. As you are obviously boycotting American wines, do you have a French red recommendation for our nation’s holiday?
David: You are right, you don’t have to go white with this meal. Many other great wines would pair wonderfully with such a feast—burgundy, beaujolais, southern Rhone, chianti to name a few, but that discussion could go on for days. If you’re confused, as always, put yourself in the hands of a sommelier, wine steward, or wine shop owner. Perhaps they can find you a new favorite.
Christian: Wow, you even threw an Italian red wine in there! Here are my top three value reds for Thanksgiving. All from the good ole USA!
1). Fess Parker, Parker Station 2006 $15
2). Qupe syrah, Central Coast 2005 $18
3). Big Fire, pinot noir, Oregon, 2006 $23
David: I am sticking with the whites. One of the most well-known Alsatian producers with a well deserved reputation is Trimbach. Their dry riesling ($19) showcases aromas of fresh herbs and chic minerality, while citrus and pineapple dance across your palate. If you are willing to splurge, you can’t miss with any of Domaine Weinbach’s wines. Here are a couple of other well-priced Old World whites that are great for the holidays.
N.M.E. Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy $15
Lurton, Les Fumées Blanches, Loire Valley, France $15
David Asam and Christian Asam manage the 650-bottle wine cellar and wine list of the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown, W.Va. We wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving, Cheers!
