Buying food from local farmers is part of my daily life, a small contribution to the ideal of spending food dollars in my community to help keep local agriculture economically viable. In winter, it’s harder to do. Farmers’ markets are closed, supermarkets sell imported food, and I don’t have a root cellar. An indoor farmers’ market for Jefferson County is still a dream. But the winter produce aisle offers a rich palette of cooking greens, tubers, roots, squash, multi-colored cauliflowers, and fruit. There’s no reason to endure a pathetic pink tomato.
Recently I worked with the chef at the Sheraton Hotel in Hagerstown, Md., to create a locally grown, mid-January menu for the Future Harvest sustainable agriculture conference. Meats and dairy products are in abundant supply in the area, and the wholesale Tuscarora Organic Growers Cooperative in Pennsylvania offered a terrific selection—greens and herbs grown in protected hoop-houses, mushrooms, and storage crops like apples, squash, sweet potatoes, parsnips, turnips, salsify, multi-colored carrots, cabbage, and Irish potatoes. One of the Farmer’s Feasts will include succulent roast pork and cider-baked ham, roasted root vegetables, a gratin of greens and goat cheese, spinach salad, apple desserts, and ice cream. My discussions with the chefs about all the delicious possibilities inspired me to try a few ideas in my own kitchen.
Escarole with Anchovies and Cream
Serves 4 to 6
I am a fan of dark green leafy vegetables—kale, Swiss chard, collards, broccoli rabe, turnip greens, and beet greens. I often use one or several kinds shredded and sautéed with garlic and hot pepper, sometimes in quick pasta dishes with poached eggs and Parmesan cheese.
For years I ignored escarole, because I didn’t understand it. Raw, the dark green outer leaves have a leathery texture and bitter edge, and until recently the only times I encountered it cooked it was in bad examples of escarole and meatball soup. Abundant in fall and winter, escarole is in the chicory family, closely related to Belgian endive and radicchio. The pale yellow-green interior leaves make a refreshing salad with shaved fennel and fresh orange segments. Italians make wonderful escarole dishes with various combinations of white beans, sausage, tomatoes, and pasta or rice.
Recently I got on an escarole kick, and put together the following recipe using anchovies, garlic, and cream to accompany roast chicken. It also would be excellent with roast lamb or lamb chops. Don’t be put off by the anchovy—simmered and attenuated with cream, it develops a subtle, rich flavor altogether different from the pungent experience of eating it straight. Vary the seasonings with a little thyme or rosemary, or a few tablespoons of finely chopped carrot added with the onion.
1 head (about 1-1/4 pounds) escarole, separated, washed and drained
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
6 anchovy filets, drained and chopped coarsely
Pinch hot pepper flakes
½ cup heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Chop the escarole crosswise roughly, in 2-inch lengths. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high heat and add the onion and garlic. Adjust the heat to prevent browning, and stir until the onion is translucent. Add the anchovy and hot pepper flakes and stir until the anchovy begins to dissolve. Add the escarole, increase the heat, and stir until the leaves are wilted. Reduce the heat to low, and cook, covered for about 10 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to high, add the cream, and stir until the liquid in the pan is slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle over the lemon zest and parsley.
Curried Squash and Yellow Split Pea Soup
This flavorful, hearty soup will please vegetarians and carnivores alike. The golden color, rich spicy flavor and subtle sweetness make it a winner on a cold blustery day. In this recipe, I puree a third of the mixture to keep the texture chunky. You also can leave it as is, and serve as a stew with rice or cous cous.
If you can’t find yellow split peas, substitute red lentils (dal), which will cook to a softer, melted texture. Green split peas will taste fine, but will give you a weirdly khaki-colored soup.
A shortcut to make squash easier to peel: Roast the squash whole in a 350 degree oven (not a microwave) for about 15 minutes until the outer layer is slightly softened. Allow to cool, then peel with a knife.
Makes about 2 quarts.
1 cup yellow split peas
¼ teaspoon ground tumeric
1 small bay leaf
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or butter, or a combination
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
1 leek, white and green parts only, thinly sliced
1 medium-size onion, finely chopped
1 large tart apple (about 6 ounces) peeled, cored and cut in 1-inch chunks
1-1/2 tablespoons Madras curry powder
2-1/2 – 3 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut in 1-inch chunks (about 6 cups)
Water
1 cup cream
Salt
Pick over and wash the peas and put in a saucepan with tumeric, bay leaf, and water to cover by an inch. Bring to a simmer, and cook, partially covered, for about 30 minutes until the peas are tender. Set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy 3-quart pot over medium heat, and add the leeks and onions. Cook until softened, then add the apple and continue cooking until it is soft. Stir in the curry and cook, stirring for a few minutes until fragrant. Add the squash, peas, and cooking liquid, and enough water to cover by about an inch. Simmer gently, partially covered, for about 30 minutes, until the squash is tender. Add the cream, season to taste with salt, and simmer a few minutes longer.
Serve as is, as a vegetable stew, or puree about a third of the soup in a food processor or blender and return to the pan. Add more liquid if needed to make the soup the consistency of heavy cream.
Barley Pilaf with Butternut Squash
The Middle Eastern flavoring of this nutty barley pilaf is a substantial complement to roast poultry or pork. Be sure to use pearl barley, which has been partially decorticated to remove the tough outer hull.
Makes 4 – 6 servings.
½ cup chopped onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup pearl barley, rinsed and drained
¼ cup raisins or currants
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 small bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
3 cups simmering chicken stock, or water
2 – 3 cups ½-inch dice butternut squash (about 12 ounces)
Olive oil
Salt
Finely chopped fresh parsley or other herbs
1 teaspoon orange or tangerine zest
¼ cup toasted slivered almonds
Put the onion, oil, and butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until the onion is softened. Add the barley and continue to stir for 5–8 minutes, until it begins to turn golden. Add the raisins, cinnamon, cayenne, bay leaf, salt, and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 30–40 minutes until the barley is tender. Set aside, covered, for about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the squash in a baking pan and toss with oil to coat. Sprinkle with the herbs and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 25 minutes until the squash is just barely tender. Remove from the oven. When the pilaf is done, taste for salt and gently fold in the squash. Sprinkle with herbs, zest, and almonds.
